I Tried Julia Child’s Pumpkin Pie, and I’m Never Baking It Without This Secret Ingredient Again

Mention “Julia Child” throughout the year, and a few iconic recipes come to mind. Coq au vin. Boeuf bourguignon. Roast chicken. But if you utter the same name and add “Thanksgiving,” I think of one food and one food only: Goldfish.

A few years ago, for our sister brand EatingWell, I reported on the fact that Julia served Goldfish—yes, those kid-friendly cheddar crackers—as her Thanksgiving appetizer each year. That unexpected confession had me so shook that I didn’t think to dive deeper into what Julia whipped up on the fourth Thursday in November. 

All of that changed when I stumbled upon Julia’s pumpkin pie recipe over on NYT Cooking. Well, technically this is her aunt Helen’s recipe, but Julia made it too—and originally shared it with Parade in November 1982. According to Times reporter Julia Moskin, it showcases how Julia is up for the challenge of coaching us through how to make familiar holiday dishes with just enough twists to feel new and fresh.

With a bag of Goldfish to fuel me through an afternoon of baking, I stepped inside the kitchen to follow Julia’s pie pointers.

How to Make Julia Child's Pumpkin Pie

To make Helen and Julia’s signature pumpkin pie:

1. Combine the wet ingredients. In a large bowl with a mixer, or in a blender pitcher, combine a couple cans of pumpkin purée, light brown and granulated sugars, salt, molasses, bourbon or rum (these are optional), cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, egg yolks, heavy cream and milk. Once this is smooth, add more milk a tablespoon at a time if it looks more stiff than a soft purée.
2. Whip the egg whites. In a clean bowl, whip egg whites until they’re foamy. Sprinkle in a pinch of salt, and as you continue whipping, gradually add sugar until you see shiny white peaks forming. 
3. Assemble and bake the pies. Beat a quarter of the whipped egg whites into the pumpkin mixture, then fold the rest in, being careful to maintain as much airiness as possible. Pour the filling into two unbaked pie crusts. Bake at 450°F until the crust appears gold, about 15 minutes. At this point, turn down the heat to 375°F for the final 25 to 30 minutes, or until a knife or skewer inserted 2 inches from the edge of each pie comes out clean. This is a sign your pumpkin pies are done.
4. Cool them in the oven. Turn the oven off, keep the door slightly open, and leave the pies in the oven to partially cool. After about half an hour, serve warm or allow the pies to cool completely, wrap them well, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Tips for Making Pumpkin Pie

Although I’m new to this particular pie, I didn’t find it daunting to DIY. Neither does a superfan, who says, “I've been making this pie every year since it came out in Parade magazine.” Whether it’s your first time or your 40th whipping this up, these pointers might come in handy:

• Set the foundation. Julia calls for two 9-inch unbaked pie shells. Pumpkin custard plays nicely with pastry and cookie crusts, so pick your favorite. An All-Butter Pie Crust, a Graham Cracker Crust, or your favorite store-bought variation on the theme are all fair game. 
• Try a single pie. Don’t want to deal with a large amount of leftovers? Simply use half as much of each ingredient. Since the recipe asks for an even number of eggs (four), it’s a cinch to make just one serves-8 pie.
• Whip it good. One key feature that separates this sweet treat from other pumpkin pies is the fluffy egg whites. For the best results, use a cold bowl and a chilled whisk or hand mixer beaters. At medium speed, whip until the egg whites transform from clearish to white, and when you can turn over the whisk or beaters and the tips of the whites curl over after a second or two. This is a sign you’ve reached soft peak stage and are ready to incorporate the cloud-like mixture into the custard.
• Get a head start. Since this pie is scented with molasses, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and bourbon or rum, it is far from shy on the flavor front. It gets even better as it sets, according to long-time fans. For “wonderful depth of flavor,” according to one home baker, make this the day before you plan to enjoy it, then let the pie set so it's firm and easy to slice and so the flavors can meld. “If you bake the pie all the way and then let it cool as described in the recipe, you can reheat it during the meal and serve warm,” Moskin confirms.
• Follow the cool tips. Speaking of cooling, it might sound like an odd step to turn off the oven and leave the door ajar post-bake. But allowing the pies to cool down with the oven will reduce the risk that the filling will end up watery. You’re going to let it set for a bit anyway, so why not keep it out of your way, safely tucked inside the oven?

The Verdict on Julia Child's Pumpkin Pie Recipe

I’ll cut to the chase for all the pumpkin pie purists. If you’re seeking a classic, dense, subtly-spiced squash pie, this isn’t it. I agree with one Julia enthusiast who deems this a “delicate, moist pumpkin soufflé in a pie crust.” The key ingredient—one that I’ll be stealing to try in other recipes—is the egg whites. Once whipped and folded into the pie filling, they add a lovely lofty quality that helps this dessert feel lighter than most holiday pies. This quality is welcome in my opinion, especially when I slice and share this pie at the end of a feast, such as Friendsgiving or Thanksgiving.

I also adore the “oomph” that’s infused to each bite thanks to unexpected additions like bourbon. (I opted for a splash from my home bar staple, Elijah Craig Small Batch.) Just a shot of the spirit was enough to lend a whisper of warm, caramel-like flavor that plays nicely with the warm baking spices and molasses. 

The best part? The egg whites, spirits, and extra spices don’t involve much extra effort. The effort-to-payoff ratio is definitely worth it, if you ask me.

Although it strays from the script—just like Julia opting to serve Goldfish instead of charcuterie—I adore Julia’s heirloom pie recipe. It tastes vintage and thoroughly modern all at once. In fact, it might inspire me to start a new tradition this holiday season…or two, if you count welcoming guests with cheddar crackers.