There are so many foods that somehow taste better at a diner than at home, and diner food is perfect when you're looking for a quick bite in a casual atmosphere. While diner classics include items like pancakes, eggs, hashbrowns, and sandwiches accompanied by crispy fries, different regions of the country flaunt their own specialties. In Pittsburgh, pierogies and Primanti Bros. (a fry-stuffed sandwich) reign supreme. Decades ago, a unique diner staple was also a crowd favorite in the city, but it has since gone out of fashion.
The Turkey Devonshire is an open-faced sandwich that, although it looks delicious, appears to have gone the way of the dodo in most Pittsburgh-area eateries. The sandwich's base is crispy white bread, topped with a generous helping of sliced turkey breast (roasted or poached) and pieces of thick-cut bacon. The sauce is made from a roux of chicken stock, milk, and cheddar cheese — almost like a cheesy Thanksgiving gravy. Finally, the whole sandwich is sprinkled with Parmesan and paprika, then broiled, so it gets all ooey-gooey with a slightly crispy top. Some variations of Turkey Devonshire feature sliced tomatoes or incorporate shrimp or crab meat (but apparently, these can be controversial additions). According to Belt Magazine, if prepared correctly, "it tastes like a reassuring cross between mac and cheese and a turkey sandwich, exemplars of comfort food". It's the perfect diner food when you're searching for a warm and indulgent bite — if you can find a place that still makes it.
How the Turkey Devonshire came to be, and where it went
Devonshire might seem like a strange name for a bite from Pittsburgh, but it's named after Devonshire Street, a wealthy area of the city in the early 20th century. In the mid-1930s, a chef named Frank Blandi was working at a local country club when he invented the Turkey Devonshire. Although created in another state entirely, Blandi's sandwich bears striking similarities to the Kentucky Hot Brown or St. Louis Prosperity sandwiches, both of which are open-faced combinations of turkey, cheese, and bacon. While Turkey Devonshire eventually became a diner food as it spread in popularity, it began its life as an elegant, "white tablecloth" kind of dish eaten at fancier restaurants in the city.
Why did the Turkey Devonshire disappear from menus? In the 1950s and 60s, the country experienced a boom in processed food options. This trend allowed eateries to buy items like bread and pre-made sauces for much less than it would cost them to make from scratch. Yet, cutting costs often means sacrificing quality, and the Turkey Devonshire was no exception. Lunch culture also began to shift from sit-down meals to a preference for more fast-paced, on-the-go options, and the open-faced Turkey Devonshire wasn't able to adapt. Additionally, some of the popular restaurants in the city that served the sandwich closed over time, taking the finesse of the dish down with them. If you're looking to partake in a Pittsburgh-approved version of the classic, eateries like Union Grill are known for and still serve the dish.