Save money by collecting the seeds of your favorite heirloom veggies for next year's garden.
Published on September 9, 2025
Bob Stefko
Purchasing vegetable seeds every year can be costly and take up a lot of time as you flip through seed catalogs on the hunt for the perfect seed selection. If you want to make your garden more self-sufficient and cut costs too, save the seeds from many common veggies and regrow your favorite plants for years to come.
To get you started, here are some of the best vegetables for seed saving and ways to ensure that the seeds you save sprout and produce the desired results.
The Best Seeds for Saving
While you may want to save the seeds from all of the veggies you’ve planted this year, some plants just aren’t great for seed saving. Hybrid-type veggies have been carefully bred for color, flavor, and other qualities, but the seeds they produce grow into plants that won't have the same desirable characteristics the parent veggies. Biennial vegetables, such as carrots, cabbage, and onions, are also tricky to gather seeds from, as they take two years to complete their life cycle and go to seed.
Instead of gathering seeds from these vegetables, focus your attention on heirloom and open-pollinated annual veggies, which produce seeds that are “true to type” during their first year of growth. Most seed catalogs and seed packets will detail whether plants are heirlooms or hybrids (identified as "F1" in seed catalogs), so you can judge if those plants are worth collecting seeds from or not.
Tomatoes
Marty Ross
Tomatoes are one of the best plants for seed saving, in part because you can collect tomato seeds and still eat the tomatoes they came from. Just wait for fruits to fully ripen on the plant, scoop the seeds out, and let them ferment in water for a few days to remove the pulpy seed covering. Then, rinse the seeds in a strainer, let them fully dry on a paper towel or paper plate, and tuck them into labeled and dated paper envelopes to store.
Peas and Beans
Bob Stefko
To save the seeds of peas and beans, all you need to do is let the pods dry fully on the plant until you hear the beans or peas rattling inside the pods. Once this occurs, carefully remove the pods from the plant. Split them open and discard the pods. Let the seeds dry on a tray for a few more days before storing them.
Squash, Pumpkins, and Melons
Carson Downing
Squash, pumpkins, and other cucurbits such as zucchini potentially cross-pollinate if planted within half a mile to a mile of each other. If you (or your neighbor) grow different varieties and you want to get seeds for saving, you should cover all the plants of the same variety with netting that keeps pollinating insects out and hand-pollinate their flowers.
When harvest time arrives, pick your fully ripened squash, pumpkins, or melons, separate the seeds, and give them a good rinse to remove any pulpy residue. To get the best germination results, save only the plumpest seeds and only the dark seeds from watermelons, as white watermelon seeds aren’t mature enough to sprout.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers only cross-pollinate with themselves, so if you just grow one type of cucumber, you don't need to take any extra steps to prevent cross-pollination.
Cucumbers for eating are harvested when they’re still a bit immature and their skins are green. However, if you want to collect cucumber seeds, you’ll need to leave your cucumbers on the vine until their skins toughen up and turn a deep, golden-yellow color. Once this occurs, pick the fully ripened cucumbers and scoop out the seeds. Process the seeds using the same fermentation technique as for tomato seeds.
Peppers
Marty Baldwin
Sweet peppers, such as bell peppers, as well as hot peppers, cross-pollinate if planted within 400 feet, so if you want to save the seeds, you will also have to take some precautions. The easiest way is to cover the peppers of the same variety with insect-proof netting and hand-pollinate the flowers with a paintbrush.
Harvest the peppers when they develop their full mature color and their skins begin to soften. Fully ripe peppers develop red, orange, yellow, and other brightly-toned skins, while peppers that are still green are technically immature, and their seeds may not sprout as well. Scoop out the seeds and let them dry fully before storage.
Radishes
Blaine Moats
To collect radish seeds, you’ll need to let your plants mature long past the point when you’d harvest radishes for their edible roots. As they mature, radishes will flower and then produce small seed pods atop their stems. Gather them like bean pods as they dry.
Keep in mind that radish pods will often burst when they’re fully mature, so you may want to collect them directly into a paper bag to avoid accidentally losing seeds while you collect them.
Okra
Dana Gallagher
Edible okra is usually harvested when the pods are about 3 inches long. But okra pods should be allowed to get as big as possible, and then dry fully on the plant if you want to collect viable seeds.
Once the pods are dry and beginning to crack open, twist the pods off the plant, and crack them open to collect the seeds inside. Let the seeds dry indoors for a few days before you store them.
Lettuce
To avoid cross-pollination, different varieties of lettuce should be separated by at least 10 feet in the garden.
Wait for your lettuce plants to bolt or flower. Once the flowers have dried, the seeds are ready to be collected. Like dandelion seeds, mature lettuce seeds have a bit of fluff attached to them. Remove it by gently rubbing the seeds in a sieve before storing them.
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"Saving Pepper Seeds." Agricultural Sustainability Institute.