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There aren't many American restaurants that have withstood things like major wars, pandemics, natural disasters, and financial collapses, and are perhaps even less that have seen their share of historical faces and names. But one of them is Delmonico's, a lower Manhattan-based restaurant that's been serving diners for almost 190 years. When he was in New York City, President Lincoln even frequented the upscale eatery where he'd meet with associates like Navy Secretary General John A. Dix and abolitionist Henry Ward Beecher.
During a visit to Delmonico's in the midst of the Civil War, the President told one of the Delmonico brothers, "In Washington, where I live, there are many mansions, but no cooks like yours," via International Wine & Food Society. Joanne O'Connor, a former employee of Delmonico's and expert on the company's history, told the New York Post, "Potatoes [au] gratin was Abraham Lincoln's favorite dish." She also shared that the restaurant honored him during his funeral procession after his assassination in 1865.
Technically, Delmonico's opened in 1827, making it closer to 200 years old, but it was initially a bakery. By 1837, the business had regrouped as a sit-down restaurant. While it was originally located downtown, Delmonico's moved a few times, to 14th and then 44th Streets. It was the 14th Street location that Lincoln dined at. Eventually, the restaurant made its home at 56 Beaver Street, right in the Financial District, where it sits today.
Over the last two centuries, the likes of Charles Dickens, Marilyn Monroe (she also loved Gino's, a forgotten New York Italian restaurant), Mark Twain, royalty, presidents, and countless Wall Street titans have all passed through its storied doors, but it remains open to anyone who wants an excellent (if not a tad expensive) meal.
How Delmonico's changed dining in America
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Delmonico's is sometimes referred to as the first fine dining restaurant in America. Some of the dining concepts pioneered here were private dining rooms, white tablecloths, and a code of sophisticated hospitality, which is known as "The Delmonico Way." Several dishes are said to be either created or perfected at the famous eatery, such as Eggs Benedict, Baked Alaska, Lobster Newberg, the Wedge Salad, chicken a la king (it's called Chicken a la Keene at the restaurant), and the Delmonico steak cut. All of these dishes are still on Delmonico's dining menu. Although Abraham Lincoln enjoyed Delmonico's while he was President and appreciated the creative menu, the meals he really liked involved childhood favorite foods.
But the famous restaurant did much more than introduce iconic dishes. Before it opened, dining out in America, even in large metropolitan cities like New York, meant a bite to eat and a pint of beer at a casual tavern. Delmonico's fancified the concept of going out to eat. It spearheaded the idea of sit-down lunches that didn't have to be brought from home and were actually hot; it hosted parties and balls in its large rooms, which was a novel idea. Prior to this, parties were held in private residences. It was also one of the first restaurants where women could dine without being accompanied by men, beginning in 1868.