8 Common Bulb-Planting Mistakes to Avoid This Fall for a Prettier Spring Garden

Planting spring-blooming bulbs like daffodils, snowdrops, hyacinths, and tulips in the fall is easy, but there are a few things to remember to ensure the best chance of a beautiful flower display. Most bulbs are quite resilient, and with proper site preparation, they will pop up merrily in spring.

If you haven’t ordered yours yet, it’s not too late. Nurseries, garden centers, and specialized bulb suppliers often sell bulbs at discounts as the season winds down. Snag some deals, grab your trowel, and follow these key tips for fall planting spring bulbs.

1. Planting Bulbs Upside Down

The direction in which you plant bulbs matters. While planting them upside down doesn’t mean you won’t get any spring flowers, it sure doesn’t help them.

Bulbs have a flatter bottom and usually a more pointy top. The pointed end goes up. If you’re having trouble determining where the top is, look for the remains of the roots. If you find root stubble, place that side down. If you really can’t tell (some bulbs aren’t very pointy), plant it on its side.

2. Planting Too Shallow

If you’re new to planting bulbs, the planting depth might surprise you because bulbs get planted much deeper than seeds. The general rule is to plant them two to three times as deep as the size of the bulb. A two-inch diameter bulb should be planted about 4 to 6 inches deep.

To determine the correct depth, measure from the top of the bulb, not the bottom. A two-inch bulb should be planted so the pointy end is about 4 to 6 inches below the soil line. The bottom of the bulb will, of course, be deeper, which means you need to dig a hole or furrow that is deeper than 4 to 6 inches to accommodate the entire bulb.

3. Planting Too Early or Too Late

Fall bulb planting isn’t bound by any exact dates, but there is a window. You’ll want to get them in the ground before the soil freezes, but not so early that they pop up prematurely.

As a guideline, most gardeners start planting fall bulbs a week or two after their first autumn frost date. By then, the nights are cooling and so is the soil. If the trees have dropped all their leaves and nighttime temperatures approach freezing, the planting window is closing, but you can still get the bulbs in the ground as long as it isn’t frozen.

Planting bulbs late is still better than storing them over the winter. Fall bulbs need a period of cool temperatures called vernalization to bloom in spring. This is why they need to be planted outside in autumn. If stored indoors, they may not bloom the first year.

4. Overwatering

Fall bulbs don’t need much water because they are not growing aboveground shoots but just developing a few roots. That means they won’t lose water to transpiration through leaves. Water the bulbs just once after planting. There is no need to water them after that if the soil feels moist, unless you have an extremely dry fall. Excessively dehydrated soil sometimes causes bulbs to become desiccated and shrivel. If that's not the case, don't water the bulbs. By overwatering, you risk rot.

5. Improper Spacing

Planting bulbs too tightly or too far apart is another common mistake. Don't be fooled by social media pictures of flower farmers planting tulips so closely that they actually touch each other. When planted too tightly, the bulbs won’t have room to grow after they bloom in spring, and they’ll compete with each other for sunshine, water, and nutrients.

If your bulbs are planted too far apart, you won’t achieve the bright swath of blooms and color you may have been anticipating. Follow the recommended spacing on the package. For a natural look, plant the bulbs in clumps of 5 to 8 bulbs, which requires digging fewer but larger holes.

6. Planting in Soil with Poor Drainage

Like overwatering, selecting a site with poor drainage can result in rotted bulbs because they will be sitting in cold, wet soil for several months. Soggy soil for extended periods is often the culprit for a lack of spring flowering.

If your garden has heavy, slowly draining soil, consider planting bulbs in a raised bed. The soil in raised beds drains faster and warms faster in spring, so you’ll have blooms a bit earlier than if you planted them in the ground. You can also try planting your bulbs in containers.

7. Improper Storage Before Planting

If your bulbs arrive in the mail when it's still too early to get them in the ground, proper storage is key. Open the box or bag, inspect them, and store them in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. A mesh bag or other breathable container is a good place to keep them until you’re ready to plant. Bulbs kept in warm, humid conditions may either rot or start to sprout. 

Properly stored bulbs can wait for a few weeks before being planted. But if they have become so dry and crisp that they crackle when pressed, they are no longer suitable for planting. Set a reminder on your phone or leave yourself a note on the calendar.

8. Planting Poor-Quality Bulbs

Five bucks for 20 daffodils at the big box store might sound like a great bargain, but you get what you pay for. Often, those bags are full of overly dehydrated, damaged, or even moldy bulbs. For more predictable and reliable results, buy quality bulbs.

A good bulb should be firm, have some heft for its size (not dried out), and of course, be free of mold. It’s okay to plant iffy-looking bulbs, but maybe stick them in an out-of-the-way spot where they’ll be a bonus if they do pop up. For your main garden bed, select the best quality bulbs to ensure plentiful spring blooms.