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When Orson Welles arrived at Ma Maison each morning, he stepped into a rhythm that brought him comfort. The filmmaker who transformed cinema in his 20s with "Citizen Kane" arrived around 11 a.m. and asked chef Patrick Terrail the same question: "What is the special today?" The reliable exchange anchored his unpredictable life.
Ma Maison opened in October 1973 on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles. Backed by legendary figures like Gene Kelly, the restaurant drew early skepticism but quickly became a fixture for Hollywood's elite. Chef Wolfgang Puck joined in 1975, helping establish a novel way of cooking that combined French technique with seasonal California ingredients — a style that came to define the L.A, dining scene.
The charming restaurant's Astroturf-covered patio, colorful menus designed by David Hockney, and unlisted phone number gave it a quirky, insiders-only appeal. Behind the ivy-covered entrance, familiar faces filled the tables. Upstairs, long lunches featured wine flowing freely among producers, agents, and actors.
Ma Maison felt like home to Orson Welles
To Orson Welles, Ma Maison was more than a restaurant; It was a place that matched his appetite for discovery. Chef Patrick Terrail created new dishes with The Great One in mind: truffle-stuffed sausages, warm lobster salad, and the famous Poulet à la Moutarde — a mustardy chicken dish Wolfgang Puck still prepares on request at Spago in Beverly Hills. Welles paid attention to every detail. For instance, when his friend, filmmaker Henry Jaglom, mentioned ordering the chicken salad, Welles exclaimed, "No, you aren't! You don't like it with all those capers (via Vulture)."
Jaglom joined Welles for lunch regularly in the early '80s. Their wide-ranging conversations, recorded with Welles' permission, became the basis for the book "My Lunches with Orson." At the big corner table, they talked about unfinished projects and memories. He joked about launching a magic show, spoke seriously about adapting "King Lear," and shared plans for movies that, unfortunately, never made it to the silver screen.
On October 10, 1985, Welles had lunch with Jaglom. That night, Welles suffered a massive heart attack and died at home at the age of 70. Five weeks later, Ma Maison closed its doors, marking the end of an era in which one of the most iconic names in film history found daily sanctuary.