The concept of 40-clove chicken recipes first popped up on my radar thanks to Ina Garten. The entertaining icon’s variation on the theme is featured in the pages of her 2004 cookbook, Barefoot in Paris. But that’s far from the first time the recipe came to the table. This dish has roots in the French countryside, decades prior to the start of this century.
Richard Olney, an American painter who moved to France in the 1950s, wrote the cookbook Simple French Food to celebrate his new love for Provencal cuisine. Within those pages, you’ll reportedly find the precursor to this dish, according to America's Test Kitchen. His play on the classic French recipe “chicken in a pot” involved braising chicken with herbs and four bulbs of garlic, which is about equal to 40 cloves. The classic French recipe didn’t really make a splash, though, until James Beard shared his twist, this time, with a name that puts the garlic center stage: poulet aux quarante gousses d'ail (aka Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic).
Craving some nostalgia and comfort, I’ve been on a quest to cook through some of the archives of retro red plaid cookbooks and BHG magazines. Inside a 1996 issue of the magazine, I came across our Test Kitchen’s twist, which takes the recipe back to its humble origins: French Farmhouse Garlic Chicken. As a home cook who prefers to measure garlic with my heart, I couldn’t resist adding this chicken dinner to my meal plan this week.
How to Make French Farmhouse Garlic Chicken
While introducing this recipe in the “Kitchen Comforts” feature of our February 1996 magazine, the editors write, “Don't be alarmed by the large amount of garlic in this recipe. Cooking garlic makes it sweet and delicious.”
Here’s how to make BHG’s chicken with 40 cloves of garlic:
- Sear the chicken. In a skillet over medium-high heat, add salt- and black pepper-seasoned boneless skinless chicken breast halves and 40 peeled cloves of garlic. Cook the chicken for about 3 minutes per side or until golden, turning once.
- Stir together and simmer the sauce. To the same skillet, pour in dry white wine, chicken broth, lemon juice, crushed dried basil, and crushed dried oregano. Add the lid and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked to an internal temperature of 165° F. (Check this with a meat thermometer.) Transfer the chicken and garlic to a serving platter.
- Thicken things up, then serve warm. In a small bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour and a splash of dry white wine or chicken broth. Stir this into the pan juices, bring it to a boil, then cook and stir for one minute more. Spoon the pan sauce over the chicken, and enjoy over mashed potatoes or rice, if desired.
Tips for Making Garlic Chicken
After recreating French Farmhouse Garlic Chicken in my own kitchen—and comparing notes with our pro recipe developers—here are a few pointers to keep top of mind if you give this a try:
- Choose another cut. We call for quick-cooking chicken breast tenders, but if you’re more fond of bone-in chicken breasts or thighs, feel free to swap them in. Do to the larger size and bone, keep in mind that you’ll need to cook these other cuts longer to get them to the same safe temp. (Our guide for how long to cook chicken, whole or in pieces can coach you through the sweet spot for your chosen cut.)
- Buy bulbs. The average head of garlic has about 10 to 12 cloves. Just in case one head falls short or any cloves are damaged or spoiled, it’s wise to stock up on 5 bulbs to be on the safe side. Of course, if you're not a huge garlic fiend, feel free to dial things back. Even half that amount should still impart a lovely layer of flavor.
- Eliminate odors. Speaking of the garlic, you’ll be handling quite a bit of it as you peel the pieces. If you end up with garlic smell on your hands, try rinsing them with water and coffee grounds or baking soda. Either helps neutralize the garlic odor.
- Be in good spirits. This chicken recipe asks for “dry white wine,” which could be anything from Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris to Unoaked Chardonnay to Sauvignon Blanc. Reach for a wine with a flavor you enjoy when drinking on its own, as the juice will cook down, concentrate, and intensify in flavor. For an alcohol-free alternative, simply use all chicken broth.
- Veg out. To round out the meal, consider tossing sautéed mushrooms, steamed chopped asparagus, and/or steamed carrot coins.
The Verdict on French Farmhouse Garlic Chicken
Many of the most popular French chicken dinner ideas (I’m looking at you, Chicken Fricassée, Coq au Vin, and Roast Chicken) take 90 minutes or more. But true to its rustic name, this rendition asks for just 20 minutes. Plus, it all comes together in a single skillet.
Besides the ease and efficiency, I adore the flavor of this recipe. The pan sauce is luscious, savory, and thick without landing heavy. It emanates with aromatic and sweet roasted garlic flavor in a way that’s milder than I ever imagined, considering the 40 cloves. Keeping them whole rather than mincing the cloves is likely key here. As for the chicken, it remains juicy and is richer in flavor than most other chicken tender recipes I’ve tried, thanks to the fact that the majority of the cooking time is spent swimming in a pool of that broth and wine sauce.
True garlic lovers might enjoy serving this over Mashed Potatoes with Roasted Garlic and Mascarpone. As for me, I couldn’t resist pairing it with a slice of sourdough toast so I could spread the tender and buttery garlic cloves across the top. (Then use that to soak up the sauce, of course.) Next time, if I’m feeling extra, I think I might whip up Pane Criminale for a bread side dish that echoes the garlicky quality of the chicken. Because even with this retro recipe now in my arsenal, I’ve yet to discover a culinary world in which there’s “too much garlic!”