The Vintage Cocktail Warren G Harding Drank At The White House During Prohibition

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Once upon a time, there was a U.S. president with a predilection for golf, extra-marital affairs, assigning friends to cabinet positions, and bending the law. No, this one occupied the White House about a century ago and also happened to really enjoy alcohol. Striking similarities to later presidents aside, Warren Gamaliel Harding was America's 29th commander-in-chief from 1921 until his death in 1923. The prohibition-era president favored whiskey, and despite the ban, he was known to serve large quantities of it at parties he hosted in the White House. As he hailed from Ohio, Harding was also a fan of the Midwestern winter cocktail, Tom and Jerry. 

The luxuriously frothy cocktail doesn't use whisky, but a shot each of dark rum and brandy. A Tom and Jerry is served warm and feels like a richer, boozy version of eggnog. The recipe is similar to eggnog, too, except that in a Tom and Jerry, the egg whites and yolks are beaten separately and then folded together with sugar and spices to create a batter. The final step is mixing in dark rum and brandy, then topping with warm water or milk. The result is a drink with a velvety, custard-like texture sprinkled with nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice.

While its origins are debated, the cocktail has been around since at least the 1820s, possibly brought over from the United Kingdom as an elevated eggnog named after two characters from a popular book-turned play from that time. Decades later, the Tom and Jerry found its way back into show business when it inspired the names of the popular cat and mouse cartoon, but that was after Harding's time.

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Few drinks start with a batter, but that's where a Tom and Jerry's richness essentially comes from. Preparing it involves the same process used in making custards — tempering the batter of whipped egg whites and sugary, booze-infused yolks by slowly pouring in a hot liquid (milk or water). It requires some patience and a lot of whisking. 

Fortunately, the egg batter can be prepared up to 4 hours in advance, simplifying matters for when you want to assemble the cocktail. Mix in ¼ teaspoon of cream of tartar per 3 egg whites, beating the whites to keep them airy and homogenous. You can also purchase ready-made Tom and Jerry batter (look for Flaherty's or Mrs. Bowen's), though it isn't as easy to find as store-bought eggnog. 

Even the late Warren G. Harding reserved the Tom and Jerry for special occasions (sources say the White House served it during Christmas). The effort required is worthwhile when the weather and company are just right, especially if you're already in the habit of making homemade eggnog. Many of the creative upgrades for eggnog can also be used to modify the Tom and Jerry. Or, follow tradition and serve a Tom and Jerry bowl, which holds the batter, with cups on the side for guests. If the drink doesn't stay hot enough in the punch bowl, consider topping the cups with foamed milk, which will also reward you with an added layer of frothiness.