The NYC Breakfast Spot That Earned Anthony Bourdain's Highest Praise

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Located in Manhattan's Upper West Side, Barney Greengrass is a Jewish deli and restaurant nearing 120 years old, placing it among the oldest delis in NYC. This reputable eatery has served classics like smoked fish, latkes, halva, bagels and smear, noodle pudding, and pastrami to happy breakfasters for decades but found a lifelong fan in one particularly famous foodie. "Whenever I want to treat myself to the best breakfast in New York, in fact, the best breakfast in the universe, I go to a place in my neighborhood famed for just that: the legendary Barney Greengrass, the Sturgeon King." Anthony Bourdain said during Season 1, Episode 19 of "A Cook's Tour."

Dubbed "the Sturgeon King" by a New York senator who delighted in Barney Greengrass' oily smoked fish in 1938, the moniker stuck for the man and the restaurant that bears his name. Over the years, Greengrass was recognized among folks in the know as the guy to go to for smoked sturgeon. So, when Bourdain walked in the door — despite all the tasty options — for him, it was sturgeon or bust. "They don't call him the Sturgeon King for nothing," he noted. 

Smoked and served over a bed of fresh vegetables with pickles, the fish should be placed atop a plain bagel, smeared with cream cheese, and nothing else, according to the legendary chef and world traveler. It was this kind of perfectly executed simplicity that often caused a restaurant to steal Bourdain's heart. "If God made anything better, he kept it for himself," he declared as he feasted on New York's beloved breakfast staples.

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While sturgeon is the star at Barney Greengrass, an old school restaurant loved by celebrity chefs and movie stars alike (looking at you Kevin Bacon), you'd better arrive hungry because there are more must-tries. "Can't leave here without having the Nova, eggs and onion," Anthony Bourdain said, referencing a traditional Jewish dish that combines Nova Scotia smoked salmon with fluffy scrambled eggs and perfectly caramelized onions.

More than just an exquisite (albeit old-fashioned) eatery, Barney Greengrass is also a traditional deli, featuring a case filled with savory delights. For Bourdain, a pint of chopped liver for the road was non-negotiable. "It's the best chopped liver in the universe. Accept no substitutions," he stated in his cool, authoritative way. The recipe, which contains ground chicken liver, hardboiled eggs, and onion, is a decadent treat when spread on crusty bread or crackers. (If you'll be making your own until you can plan a trip to NYC, Andrew Zimmerman says don't be stingy with the schmaltz!)